Decoding Shoe Sizes: Why They Vary and How to Find the Perfect Fit

Have you ever wondered why you’re a size 8 in one brand and a size 9 in another? Or why your usual size feels too tight in a different style? You’re not alone. As podiatrists, we often hear our patients express their frustrations at inconsistent shoe sizes here in Australia. In today’s blog post, we’re going to unravel the mystery of shoe sizing and arm you with the knowledge to find the perfect fit every time.
The History of Shoe Sizing
Before we dive in too far, let’s take a quick step back in time. The concept of standardised shoe sizing dates back to 1324 A.D. when King Edward II of England decreed that three ‘barleycorns’ (yes, actual grains of barley) laid end to end would equal one inch and shoe sizes would be based on this measurement. While we’ve come a long way since then, some of the inconsistencies in modern shoe sizing can be traced back to these historical roots.
Why Shoe Sizes Vary
- Different Countries, Different Systems: The US, UK, EU and other regions all use different sizing systems. A US size 8 is not the same as a UK size 8 or an EU size 38.
- Brand Variations: Each brand has its own “fit model”. This is a foot shape they deem and use as standard. This can lead to significant differences between brands.
- Style Differences: Even within the same brand, different styles (like running shoes vs. dress shoes) may fit differently due to their intended use and design.
- Manufacturing Inconsistencies: Mass production can lead to slight variations even within the same brand and style. Some brands use multiple factories and it can depend on the calibration of their machines, which machines they are using and a range of other factors.
- Width Matters: Many people focus only on length, but width is equally important. Some brands offer width options, while others don’t.
- Materials: The materials used in shoe construction can affect fit. Leather shoes, for example, may stretch and change shape over time.
How to Find Your Perfect Fit
- Get Measured Regularly: Foot size can change over time due to age, weight changes, or health conditions. Have your feet measured at least once a year.
- Consider Both Length and Width: A shoe that’s the right length but too narrow or wide won’t provide proper support.
- Shop Later in the Day: Feet tend to swell throughout the day, so shoe shopping in the afternoon or evening can help ensure a better fit.
- Bring Your Own Socks: Wear the type of socks you’ll typically wear with the shoes you’re trying on.
- Use the Thumb Test: There should be about a thumb’s width of space between your longest toe and the end of the shoe.
- Walk Around: Take a stroll in the shoes. They should feel comfortable immediately – there’s no “breaking in” period for properly fitting shoes.
- Check the Flex Point: The shoe should bend where your foot bends, typically at the base of the toes.
- Consider Orthotic Use: If you wear orthotics, bring them along when trying on shoes.
A Helpful Conversion Table
Women’s Shoe Size Conversion Chart: US, UK, EU, and Foot Length (cm)

Men’s Shoe Size Conversion Chart: US, UK, EU, and Foot Length (cm)

Understanding Brannock Device Measurements
The Brannock Device, that metal contraption you may see in shoe stores, measures three key aspects of your foot:
- Heel-to-toe length: The most commonly used measurement for shoe size.
- Arch length: The distance from your heel to the ball of your foot.
- Foot width: The widest part of your foot.
Knowing these measurements can help you communicate more effectively when in store and make more informed decisions when shopping online.
The Future of Shoe Sizing
As technology advances, we’re seeing exciting developments in shoe sizing. 3D foot scanning, AI-powered size recommendations and even custom-made shoes are becoming more accessible. These innovations promise to make finding the perfect fit easier and more accurate than ever before.
When to Seek Professional Help
If you consistently struggle to find comfortable shoes, or if you have specific foot conditions like bunions, flat feet, or diabetes, see a podiatrist. We can provide personalised recommendations and, if necessary, prescribe custom orthotics to ensure you get the support and comfort you need.
Remember, properly fitting shoes are not just about comfort – they’re essential for your foot health and can prevent a host of issues, from blisters to more serious conditions like plantar fasciitis or stress fractures.
So the next time you’re shoe shopping, armed with this knowledge, you’ll be better equipped to find that perfect fit. Your feet will thank you!